The bees buzzingly between purple and yellow flowers. Thousands of these little and laborious creatures live on the roof. They are the source of honey that I smeared in my breakfast bun a few minutes ago. But these bees do not live in the forest, but in the middle of Weimar, on the Dorint Hotel roof!, Located in the center of Germany about 130 kilometers from the city of Leipzig.
Six colonies of bees buzz and gather here, producing about 45 kilos of honey for the hotel each year. When lowering the roof, the wooden boards of the old staircase creak under my feet. On the one hand, the hotel, twenty years old, is relatively new, but at the same time, an ancient and very cozy air is breathed, with a Biedermeier touch.
Christian, whom I met on the occasion, told me about the many and endearing peculiarities of Weimar. Of its contradictions and all the small peculiarities that make Weimar a memorable city. In this classical and middle -class atmosphere, evoked by the busts of Goethe, Schiller, Lessing and Bach in each corner, there is always something different, something daring and curious.
After only ten minutes knowing Christian, I’m already aware of each word of his, and we immediately immerse ourselves in fascinating stories. The former Bauhaus student now works, among other things, as a tour guide in Weimar, and I bet that he is one of the best. While we have a glass of wine at the ACC Café, I learn everything about the Bauhaus, its great passion. It is evident that he is passionate. The spark goes on right away, and soon I am also completely captivated by this group of passionate artists.
And so, while we drink a glass of wine, Christian shows me his city and takes me on a mental trip through Weimar’s history.
The beautiful ruins in the park on the shores of the ILM River were once the study of artist Johannes Itten, who taught the preliminary course at Bauhaus University. In the Tempelherrenhaus, which had been assigned as a study, he not only taught his students painting techniques. Dress with monastic habits, he also performed meditation and breathing exercises, and, of course, occasionally celebrated sumptuous parties. The building, originally built as a greenhouse, had always served as the scenario for concerts and festive receptions. Unfortunately, the Tempelherrenhaus was almost completely destroyed in an air bombardment during World War II. It only survived part of the subsequently added tower, supposedly designed by Goethe himself.
Perhaps it is also due to the faint light that today struggles to break through the park wrapped in fog on the shores of the ILM. But the ruins are simply lovely, even in their state of decline. For me, the House of the Tempelherren, or rather, what remains of it, is one of the most beautiful places in all Weimar.
In the park on the banks of the ILM River, the Goethe garden house attracts visitors. Just above, now slightly hidden from trees, is Haus am Horn. The Bauhaus University’s model was a thorn stuck for the Nazis in the middle of the last century. The shiny white cube, which rose just above the perfect house of the German classic, was, in his eyes, degenerate art and had to be removed. Fortunately, this did not work, and this first work of the Bauhaus is currently being restored. In 2019, exactly 100 years will be completed since Walter Gropius founded the Bauhaus University in Weimar.
Not far from the park on the banks of the ILM, where I almost have the feeling of following the steps of Goethe and I would not be surprised if it appeared around the corner, I soon find myself in a green space.
Weimar’s historical cemetery is the final resting place of important German poets and thinkers. I don’t look for Schiller or Goethe’s graves, but simply walk through this quiet and green world. I like how light affects the old wooden banks and stone crosses. I read some of the old inscriptions and marvel at seeing Los Angeles praying to heaven on the tombs. The Russian Orthodox Church also shines with warm beauty in the lush greenery of the cemetery. This small church was built in the nineteenth century especially for María Pavlovna, the Grand Duchess of Saxony-Weimar, born in Russia.
The Early Prehistory and History Museum transports you further back in time. It seems unnoticed by most tourists visiting Weimar. Apart from a father and his little daughter, I am the only one who walks through his rooms. A long time ago, the current Turingia area was a swampy landscape. But at some point in migrations, they also settled here. They lived in peace, traded with neighboring peoples and were incredibly skilled riders. It was said that even the huns were impressed by their skills.
Stone Age Museum
Because this town worshiped Odín and Thor, they were also called Thoringi, Thor’s children. This name later became Turingia. The Name Weimar, by the way, comes from the Ancient German Wih -mer, which means something like “the sacred place next to the lake.”
But in the seventh century, the Franks arrived, conquered the earth and spread their new religion, Christianity. A dark era began. The Middle Ages was marked by epidemics and misery. The plague, inquisition and hunting of witches tormented the living. Only with Martin Luther and his reform of the Christian Church, the light returned to the dark.
The true founder of the classic Weimar, as the world knows her, was the Grand Duchess Ana Amalia. A woman of great education, related to the powerful Empress Habsburg, María Teresa, who presumably also supported Ana Amalia in her attempt to assume the government of the Principality until the age of the age of the young Carlos Augusto. As wise, Ana Amalia brought influential philosophers like Wieland as tutors of the young Duke. This, in turn, attracted Goethe to Weimar. Together with the young Carlos Augusto, Goethe initially celebrated with great enthusiasm and joy, and later, as Ministerial Counselor and Director of the Theater, he directed the fate of the small city. Herder and other philosophers soon arrived in Weimar. Schiller also settled in the small town, which had long won the reputation of being a cosmopolitan people.
And these two great poets also watch me on the wall of the hotel room when I finally fall in bed at night, tired and with my head full of new stories.
Useful information for your trips – Weimar:
Good coffees and restaurants in Weimar:
During my walks through Weimar, I discovered some very beautiful and cozy coffees. Unfortunately, there was a Monday there, so many stores, which should be lovely, were closed.
Fama Café & Books,
Windischenstrasse 22,
99423 Weimar.
I almost missed fame at first, since it is not in one of the beautiful old buildings. But inside, this little coffee is just what I like: cozy, with many books on the walls and delicious homemade cakes in the showcase.
ACC Café Restaurant
Burgplatz 1
99423 Weimar
Website: ACC-CAFE.DE
In the ACC I met Christan Eckert, the brilliant guide of the city, of whom I fell in love instantly. In addition to being a coffee-restaurant, the ACC is mainly an alternative gallery, with interesting exhibitions, conferences and events.
Gretchens
Seifengasse 8
99423 Weimar
Sitio web: gretchens
. Hidden in the lovely and winding Seiphangasse (soap street), Gretchens coffee-restaurant is a quiet and cozy place to read or relax. Only at lunchtime it is filled with numerous locals that appreciate the delicious food that is served here. A small hotel is also part of the experience.
What to do in Weimar?
You can find Christan Eckert on his website www.stadtfuehrungenweimar.de, where you can also reserve walks through the city with him.
Early Prehistory and History Museum
Humboldtstraße 11
99423 Weimar
Website: Alt-thueringen.de/museum
Input: € 3.50
There are buttons to press, movies to see, natural size figures that amazed and the aroma of hay and fire. Made with love.
Weimar Haus
Schillerstrasse 16
99423
Website
From Weimar. Input: 7.50 euros.
A new and modern museum that guides you interactively and totally automatic through the history of the city. Very cozy and easy to understand.
Goethe garden house,
Park at the ILM
99425 Weimar .
Input: 6.50 €.
Includes audioguía. While the house is certainly interesting and very visited, I found other things in Weimar much more fascinating. Perhaps a more interesting visit would be the museum and residence in Frauenplan, where Goethe subsequently moved when the garden house became too cold for him during the winter months.
Anna Amalia library,
Place of democracy 1,
99423 Weimar.
The Rococo Hall, in particular, must be beautiful. Unfortunately, I was disappointed to read somewhere that it was essential to reserve in advance, and lost the opportunity to visit the library. The charming Janett of Teilzeitreisender says: Try it! Sometimes you can even enter without queue!
Accommodation in Weimar:
Hotel Dorint
Beethovenplatz 1/2
99423 Weimar
Sitio Web: Hotel-Dorint
I slept wonderfully at the Dorint hotel, located right next to the park on the shores of the ILM River. From my window, I had direct views to the green park. It is just a few minutes from the hotel in the city center, the Bauhaus University and the historical cemetery. My advice: Don’t forget to try honey with your delicious breakfast!
This article was written as part of a press trip to which I was invited by Discover Thuringia. The opinions expressed here are impartial and, as always, they only reflect my personal opinion.
This article and its photos are reproduced with authorization from the author.
The author loves to travel, and does not always have to travel to remote destinations. Even in the heart of Europe, there are still little known places, fascinating landscapes and captivating stories to discover. After finishing his studies, Nicole Biarnés moved to Spain, where he has resided near Barcelona for 23 years. As an independent author, she writes travel books, collaborates with various websites, conducts in situ research for television productions and informs about life in the Mediterranean in her travel blog www.freibeuter-reisen.org.
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